What are the best places to go for summer vacation? Why not heading to Stockholm, the Swedish capital? For the Escape Plan column, our author writes about places and projects that are a must-visit in Stockholm – especially if you’re an urban planner.

Situated at Lake Mälaren’s outlet in the Baltic Sea, Stockholm resembles a landscape divided into several smaller islands and land areas. City development began on the small islet that is today Gamla stan, where architectural elements of both the Middle Ages and Classicism can be viewed. In spring, the city park Kungsträdgården is a must-see with its flower roof of pink, fluffy Sakuras and its mixed functionality. Stockholm is characterized by attentive adaptation and inspiration from external trends, but has also shown proof of innovation. In the 40s, the Modernist park policy “the Stockholm style” got international recognition and is still well preserved along the path of Norr Mälarstrand. By introducing the concept of “Stockholmian Landscape-urbanism”, Stockholm reinforces its notion as a leading-edge urban visionary with the extensive ongoing project Hagastaden.

Escape Plan: Stockholm – four places, four facets

Gamla stan

Gamla stan (the Old town) is the small islet where Stockholm was founded in 1252, and an obvious choice to get better acquainted with the “Venice of the North”. On 36 hectares of land, attractions such as the Royal Palace, the Great Church, several museums and all kinds of restaurants and shops are situated. The dominant architecture is of neoclassical style, employed until the late 1850s, a few houses even containing medieval fragments and facades. With charming cobblestone streets and narrow alleys, a pleasant walk starts on Västerlånggatan, the city’s most important business street until the 20th century. It runs from Mynttorget in the north to Järntorget in the south, continuing further down towards the Slussen area and the famous “Guldbron”, a bridge inaugurated by the end of 2020 connecting the Old Town with the hip Södermalm.

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Norr Mälarstrand

Another attraction is Norr Mälarstrand street on the island of Kungsholmen. Strolling down this path by the water, completed in 1943 by eminent city gardener Holger Blom and his assistant, the also renowned Erik Glemme, you are offered not only winding promenades, small bridges and playgrounds, but also an unbeatable view of Riddarfjärden. The functionalist park style became known in the ’30s and ’40s as “the Stockholm style”. The original plantings along the route are largely preserved from this time, with groves of alder, willow, poplar and birch, undulating lawns at the shoreline, and native aquatic plants. Following the route all the way down to the city, you will pass the City Hall, where the annual Nobel party is held.

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Kungsträdgården

Stockholm’s most central park is a park for all seasons. With historical roots dating back to the 15th century, today it is a meeting place and green center that connects Hamngatan and Karl XII’s square down to Strömgatan. In winter, part of the square is transformed into an ice rink and at the end of April, the cherry trees bloom in the northern part, an exquisite experience that has become a tradition for many Stockholmers to enjoy. The park is flexible, with many different spaces and functions, such as water games in the Forum pond, sculptures, chess games, long wooden benches and generous seating stairs. By continuing east towards Strandvägen, you will pass the ancient Dramaten, the Royal Dramatic Theater. Only a stone’s throw away, the Teatergrillen restaurant on Nybrogatan street features one of Stockholm’s oldest preserved interiors. The menu is classically Scandinavian and the atmosphere exclusive with large sofas and a luxurious touch of French boudoir.

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Hagastaden

A project that has been in full swing in the northern part of the city since 2014 is the famous Hagastaden. The aim is to unite the dense city with the surrounding landscape and strengthen the green link between the inner city, Solna, and Haga. To mimic a slowly developing city, the architectural goal is a symphonically oscillating verticality. Hagastaden extends from Vasastan and Norra Stationsgatan into Karolinska University Hospital and Karolinska Institutet, further out to Hagaparken. Hagastaden is unique in terms of density and ambition; nothing like this has ever been built in all of Scandinavia. Six thousand new homes and 50,000 jobs are what the project is expected to offer, with a completion date set to 2030.The budget of about 70 billion kronor will be expressing “Stockholmian landscape-urbanism” and provide evidence of innovation in a time where densification is a prominent keyword in urban planning.

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Place to stay: Hotel Diplomat, Strandvägen 7C
Restaurant: Teatergrillen, Nybrogatan 3

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Read the Escape Plan of Algiers here.

Due to covid-19, the website of the daily Swedish newspaper “Dagens Nyheter” is now for free until 1st of June. The site provides an interactive map service that shows the spread of the virus over time. The map looks unbalanced in a way that reminds me of a puzzle. If you change the cursor, you will see a red color which over time grows increasingly larger, spreading all over the image showing the Swedish landscape. It is also possible for the color to highlight the situation in the Scandinavian neighboring countries of Norway, Denmark and Finland. But these do not seem to be as affected by this reddish mess as Sweden. What is going on?

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Since mid-March, the overall consensus has been to shut down most of Europe’s societies. This trend is also visible on a global level and it may not be questionable since, after all, a pandemic ravages the world. In several countries such as France, the United Kingdom and Italy, war-like attitudes towards enemy preparedness have been evident in this crisis situation. For example, few could have missed French president Macron’s fiery speech about the importance of fighting this insidious enemy together, of standing united against this threat, which in turn has forced all the French into a spring-long quarantine.

What is it that makes Sweden not react in the same way? Here, the restrictions are much milder with open elementary schools and restaurants, with the only real prohibition not to exceed 50 people in places and public gatherings. The Public Health Authority encourages everyone to take their own personal responsibility in the crisis, with the addition of calling for social distancing, as not to forget to wash your hands frequently. We are also urged not to engage in any unnecessary travel and above all not to visit older relatives. Public transport shows signs with information about keeping a distance and calls on you to not beon that bus or train unless you have a socially important function.

How do people respond to the word ‘recommendation’ in the midst of a global crisis?

In response to this and to the contrasting clarity of foreign authorities in dealing with the situation, the Swedish norms seem to be tightening ever harder and also stifling the Swedes’ trust in the authorities. And rightly so, because how do people respond to the word recommendation in the midst of a global crisis? Rules may give a sense of how political power is wielded, but it can also generate security, respect and a confidence in strong leadership, qualities much needed in a situation like this.

In Sweden, the lack of distinct rules seems to have led to a general distrust in the Swedish authorities, and foremost the Public health authority. If the restrictions here are milder than in the rest of the world, this may add to the argument that the outgoing information on the situation ought to be well thought out. Last week, to inform about the spread of the infection in Stockholm, the public health authority communicated that with each confirmed case of covid-19, there are a 1000 of undetected cases. That would mean 6 million are carrying the infection in Stockholm alone. Clearly, this inaccurate claim was later withdrawn, but with the damage already made – removing further confidence in the public health authority.

Stockholm – the riskiest place to be in at the moment

The media is also not late to take advantage of the authorities’ actions in this situation, and when a strong fear is aroused, people demand and consume information like never before. Flyers with big headlines flicker by about the “New Corona virus” that spreads like wildfire across the world, causing death by suffocation to both young and old. I work in Stockholm myself – the riskiest place to be in at the moment according to the news and I get there by public transport on a daily basis. By the end of March, streets and squares around the Central Station were deserted and the atmosphere haunting, as if the places had been left behind. This persisted for some weeks.

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Playing Russian roulette

But over time people get bored. And above all, you do as others do. As the spring sun peeks out after a half-year-long darkness, it becomes irresistible for most Swedes not neglect their self-elected home quarantine. In a trance-like state, they eel out, dismissing the infection as now having hit a plateau, probably even reached its peak. Covid-19 may well take a break, so you can enjoy an ice cream in the sun. However, this seemingly innocent denial is actually more like playing Russian roulette. But it’s easy to seduce yourself now that the whole situation, similar to a bad horror movie, finally feels too bizarre. You just want to press the pause button and experience a better atmosphere, like hanging out with friends at the nearest cafe. And when there’s no clear prohibition…

Division of the community?

Anger, mostly in the form of passive aggression seems to be the prevalent reaction to this behavior. As the mass consciousness of Sweden is very aware of being politically correct, when someone does not conform and break against “the rules” which, not to forget, are actually recommendations, they really get the evil eye upon them, not only from their own social network, but from anyone with access to social media. You speak ill of those who defy the new-established norm and many friendships are put to the test. It can also be argued to be a question of class – that the real victims in the Swedish situation are the low-paid workers who don’t have the choice of working from home in a fancy summerhouse. Could it be that when the superiors do not give strict prohibitions, we set them up between each other, just to channel the tension? If the large mass is not curbed by the authorities, it is indeed the individual who is called upon to take his or her own responsibility, whose personality is being brutally exposed and thus put to the test, in the end even causing a division of the community?

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On the right track to recover in an unusually elegant way

In the country acclaiming the virtue of the concepts “just enough” and “common sense”, Sweden’s response can well be seen as rather paradoxical. As stated, compared to most other countries, Sweden has adopted a high-risk model for crisis management in a pandemic with an unknown virus. However, this response might not be so weird after all. In global statistical terms, Sweden is at the top regarding how much money is invested in research and science, as well as the proportion of researchers in relation to population. Sweden is also an extremely secular country – according to the World Values Survey, Sweden is in fact the country in the world that is most unique in terms of secular/ rational values and self-expression. In other words, it may not be a totally unfitting conclusion to argue that the idea of God is pretty much past its prime in this country, in favor of science and hipster culture. Although no one currently can predict the full consequences of this pandemic, it can be seen as refreshing that not all countries follow the same line. One can only hope Sweden is on the right track to recover in an unusually elegant way. What is easier to forecast, however, is how the epidemic suites can leave behind a bitter taste of dissociated community among the people. Not to mention the economic repercussions, although here Sweden cannot be seen as a distinct species.

Experiment of social conditioning

I would assume that when everyone in an entire nation such as France and Germany is forced to self-quarantine, it becomes a little easier for the mass to deal with, since someone, i.e. the state has had the final word. Opposed to this is the Swedish approach of letting everyone handle it themselves – which is a much riskier and at the same time very trusting way of dealing with this phenomenon. Still, for the sake of keeping trust in the authorities and to avoid societal fragmentation, an unknown massive threat may be better addressed by distinct rules rather than guidelines. Before all pieces of this puzzle are laid out, the Swedes might be pushed to the limit in an experiment of social conditioning.